Thursday, July 2, 2015

Western Brook Pond Cruise - Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland

Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland (52 degrees, chilly, blue skies)


When was the last time you went for a boat trip and walked a mile and half to get to the dock?  We had heard so much about this boat trip we were willing to go along with the added exercise. 

We are now in Cow Head Harbour on the north side of Gros Morne National Park. We are staying at the Seabreeze B&B which has a small nine site RV park along side it over looking the sea. The owner is very friendly and helpful with giving us suggestions on what to see and do in the area. On our first full day we decided to take the boat trip since it was going to be our best weather for the next few days. 
Western Brook Pond
The walk out to the dock was pleasant and easy and for the most part on a nice boardwalk which extended over peat bogs nine feet deep.  You sure didn't want to fall off the boardwalk! Reservations are made through the National Park and taking a lunch along is a good idea, although the office does sell some snacks. 



Peat bogs




Our cruise boat
The cruise was narrated and we were told it was one of the purest lakes in the world due to very little sediment being produced from the granite rock and no run off with nutrients. There is also very low impact with humans and the waters cold temperatures allowed for little growth. It was pristine and totally secluded by the mountains ringing around it. The mountains are the northern end of the Appalachians. 


Backpackers are allowed in this area but it takes about four days to hike out and requires a day long training class. We did drop off two backpackers on our trip.





We saw lots of waterfalls cascading down the ravines. The boat captain would circle around each one so everyone could get a good photograph.






Jann and Vickie enjoying the cruise


It was a great way to start our time here at the National Park. Afterwards  we had a nice lunch on the deck overlooking the lake. We will be here for eight days with an additional move to the south end. Stay tuned!

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

A Visit To The Big Land - Labrador

Red Bay, Labrador (52 degrees, rain with some blue skies)

And there you find yourself,
seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
And oddly enough,
it's exactly where you want to be. 

Point Amour Lighthouse


We traveled by ferry after leaving St. Anthony from St. Barbs to Labrador. It's a very northern, sparsely populated (26,000 residents) providence of Canada and we suddenly found ourselves in a very untamed and beautiful place. 



The night before we stayed at St. Barbs RV Park just on the other side of where the ferry would take us in the morning to Labrador. It's basically a huge gravel area with a hookups around the perimeter. There is good WYFI in the office building but definitively does not have any "it" factor. 

The ferry is not nearly as bright and shiny as the one we took originally upon entering Newfoundland but it was very reasonable and for about $40 it transported our car and us over to Labrador. It was a 1 1/2 hour journey and once again easy to get on and off. Note how the bow of the ship lifts up and this is how you enter the ship with your car.



We arrived with our friends in Quebec. So, where are we exactly? Below is a map of our route since arriving in Newfoundland to help orient you. As you get off the ferry Quebec is to your right and Labrador to your left with three different time zones. Sheesh! We left the dock and decided to drive the French side first. It was raining quite a bit but we still enjoyed the pretty countryside as it unfolded for about a couple of hours.  There are lots of hidden lakes, tidy village, and waterfalls along the way. We stopped at a visitor center for a quick look and then decided to head back. If we had continued the  road would eventually turn to rough gravel and it's possible to continue on into Quebec. 




We saw a funny sign in a visitor center which said "God made Labrador in six days and on the seventh he threw rocks". Labrador is a very rocky place. In fact, there are huge rocks (non native) looming over the cliffs in many places left behind by glaciers. 









We then drove into Labrador and dropped our friends off at their hotel. We took a spectacular drive out to Red Bay where we were supposed to stay at the Whaling Village. Unfortunately, they had us booked for the wrong month and made alternate reservations back where our friends were staying. It was a long day but it will make traveling together a lot easier plus our room had a whirlpool tub. Sweet!

Puffins usually hang out at this island.  Not today...far too windy and cold

The next day we went back out to Red Bay to tour in more detail the whaling village. It's a World Heritage site and it was very interesting to hear the history of whaling and cod fishing in this area. It was originally settled by the Basques in the 1500's. Many ships got caught up in storms in this area and in the 70's they told us about a ship which was excavated, studied, and then buried back in it's original location. Hunting for whale and procuring the oil was a very dangerous but lucrative business. 



Boat used for whale hunting

Whale bone in the forefront

Processing center

Interpretive center

Basque whaler

Whale oil barrels

Replica of the ship


We also saw a big iceberg out in the bay.



We had a nice dinner later in the evening and found out our waitress was the daughter of the assistant light house keeper. She had spent her childhood growing up at the Point Amour Lighthouse and told us a little bit about her life there. It was a lonely place to grow up and her only friends were the other lighthouse keepers family and one other family. The next day we went out to see the lighthouse and toured the museum and grounds. It was a beautiful day. 

Point Amour Lighthouse

The museum and lighthouse were very well done with excellent displays. No one lives here now since it's automated. There were some famous ship wrecks here and tales of great risk in saving the sailors and cargo. There is still wreckage shewn along the shore here from several wrecks. This lighthouse was created to help ships navigate a quicker passage into the St. Lawrence seaway. 

The gift shop is where the lady we met had grown up. We found some really pretty jewelry to take home here. There is a stone found here called Labadorite which is usually blue in color and changes with the light.  I purchased a very pretty necklace.


Kitchen


View from the top of the lighthouse

Jann examining the lense


Carl peaking down the stair case
Our quick visit to Labrador was delightful and we were all glad to have come over for a visit. Our next stop is Gros Morne National Park. Lots of hiking awaits. Stay tuned!