The Call of the Mountains - Jasper National Park

Jasper National Park, Alberta, (low 28 degrees, high 42 degrees, snow showers)

"going to the mountains

is going home"

John Muir

To say Jasper National Park is spectacular is an understatement. It's vast, beautiful and at this time of year has more wildlife then we have seen all summer in Alaska.

Our campground was a great location for seeing the park and accessing the downtown Jasper area. The town is very vibrant with lots of restaurants and a great visitor center. We had only brief glimpses of blue sky, but enjoyed the park nonetheless. Our first day was spent exploring the Maligne Lake area. It was a very pretty drive and we saw lots of elk, moose and big horn sheep. It mating season for the elk and the males were very busy protecting their females. We heard lots of bugling which is certainly a very eerie sound.

Found some Park Canada Red Chairs at Lake Edith

This moose hung out at the edge of the road and caused quite a traffic jam

Heads of Big Horn Sheep were everywhere

Maligne Lake

There are some nice boat rides on Maligne Lake, however, the weather did not really cooperate.  The boat does offer some great views on the lake but it was really too cold and rainy to justify the cost.  Nest time!!!

TIP:  Advance reservations for the boat trip during the busy summer season is a must.

We did take a short hike out to Moose Lake. The icy snow made it a little treacherous but it was  nice to be out enjoying the quiet forest.

Moose Lake

The next day we hiked Maligne Canyon. This is one of the best hikes we have taken and that is saying a lot. The trail goes along a steep canyon where you cross up to six bridges. We took our time and went from bridge one to four and back. One of the interpretive signs says the river acts like natural sandpaper and has slowly over time wore through the rock to create this magnificent canyon. The views are very dramatic and some overlooks take your breath away. 

Another relaxing place to check out is the Jasper Hot Spring. It's a long, windy drive up to the springs and well worth the trip. It's more like a two big swimming pools filled with hot water and one cold pool for dipping...if you dare.  It was cold and surrounded by some snow. This is perfect weather is our opinion for a hot spring. We got such a kick out of seeing the life guards dressed in warm winter clothes and hiking boots holding life preservers.  It was relaxing and oh so enjoyable for only $7/person. 

Our next stop are the Columbia Ice Fields.  Be sure to dress warmly!

Wandering the Yukon - Dempster Highway, Northern Lights, Hot Springs, Great Food, Wildlife and More

Whitehorse, Yukon  (45 degrees, lots of rain)

Driving over the Top of the World Highway in the rain took its toil. Cleaning up the jeep and motorhome took a lot of time and effort. We had planned to stay at Tombstone Territorial Campground on the Dempster Highway but again rain was predicted and its a very rugged pot filled road. We were feeling a little beat up and decided to pass and take a road trip in the jeep instead. 

The Dempster Highway extends 457 miles towards a small Inuvik community and basically follows an old dog sled route. We drove about 62 miles of it. We have seen a lot of Alaska and wondered how different this road would be and whether it was really worth the effort.  It is!  Even though we were out there on a very rainy day it was so beautiful. What was especially interesting was the vast stretches of tundra. 

The campground, Tombstone, is about 45 miles in with primitive sites and very popular. There are some sites which would be great for big rigs. The sites are first come, first served and from what we have heard you would want to arrive early to snag one. There are a few pull out places further north which could be used if not available. The Visitor Center was very helpful and the warm fire and hot tea were so appreciated.

From Dawson City we headed further southeast to a small town called Pelly Crossing. This was just a stopover and it turned out we were in the right place at the right time to see the Aurora Borealis late at night.  I had downloaded an app on my phone which alerted me conditions were favorable for seeing it. John set the alarm clock for 1 a.m.  He got up to look out and rushed back to wake me up. What a cool phenomenon. It was like a thin lacy green ribbon streaking across the skyline. One minute it was visible and the next it was gone.  A few minutes later it would streak across again. We woke up our friends Bob and Becky and together we watched it in awe for quite awhile.  What an experience. Our pictures are terrible but we will remember this night forever.

From here we went to another hot spring outside of Whitehorse. The drive here was so pretty as we drove by many lakes and forests. The Yukon has a raw beauty all its own. We like it.

TIP:Be sure to stop at the Five Finger Rand Overlook. Take the stairs down to the overlook for a beautiful view.

Five Fingers Rapids (over 230 stairs each way to see it but well worth the effort)

The campground at the hot spring was very peaceful and nice. Although the hot spring is dated (a renovation is planned) it was very clean and felt great. It's also very reasonable and the staff are helpful and courteous.



Next to our campground was the Yukon Wildlife Preserve. We spent the afternoon on a pretty day walking around and getting some up close looks at the wildlife.  There is a van trip you can take but we would have had to wait quite awhile to take it and opted to walk instead.

Male Elk

Thin horned sheep

Mountain goat

Lynx

Red fox

Arctic Fox

Caribou

Male moose

Our friends Randy and Fran passed through the area and we all met at the Klondike Rib and Salmon for a delicious dinner together in Whitehorse. It was a long wait but the food was so well prepared and so yummy.  Randy and Fran told us all about a NOMADS project they had led for three weeks. They sure accomplished a lot with  a very limited amount of volunteers.  

TIP:  Go early to the restaurant 

Campground Reviews: 

Pelly River Crossing, Pelly Crossing, Yukon, 2 stars, free ($0-wow), maintained by a First Nations in area, no hookups, no water or dump, free firewood, dirt sites with trees and privacy, somewhat run down, a few can accommodate a big rig, near river, campers nearby "celebrating" late into the night, good Verizon signal

Hot Springs Campground and Hostel, Whitehorse, Yukon, 3 stars, 30 amp pull thru, no water or sewer, dump and water available at campground, level, gravel sites, close together, in pretty birch tree forest, poor Verizon signal, poor WiFi, walking distance to hot springs

Caribou RV Park, Whitehorse, Yukon, 3 stars, 30 amp/water pull thru, no sewer, dump on site, great RV/Car wash on premises, slightly run down, owner  is very friendly and helpful, very limited WiFi (check email only), no Verizon signal, 

TIP: Be sure to make reservations for dinner at the Wolf Den, a Swiss/German restaurant next door. We enjoyed an excellent dinner together. 

Be Sure To Stop For A Soak - Liard Hot Springs BC

Liard Hot Springs, BC (62 degrees, sunny most of the time)

Advice From A Hot Spring

"Let your talents spring forth

Keep new ideas bubbling

Be warm and welcoming

Tree Swallow

Have deep reservoirs

Let off a little steam"
Yourtruenature.com

Fun photo of John, Jann, and Barry

We spent four relaxing days at Liard Hot Spring Provincial Park. Numerous people had recommended the stop and it's just an amazing place. There is a board walk leading from the campground to the hot springs which is delightful all by itself. It's about a 15 minute walk to the natural hot springs  Changing rooms and bathrooms are available. Be sure to drink plenty of water. The left side is cooler and the right side can be quite hot since this area is fed directly from the spring.

In early times the Kaska First Nations people lived here. Trappers and prospectors discovered them in 1835 and this  park was created in 1957.

We enjoyed a few hikes in the area and some pretty waterfalls. The camp hosts were so helpful. One day we got a nice long look at a black bear. He was busy eating lots of Wild Roses and he was as curious about us and we were about him.

It's also the first time we have seen Wood Bison. They are much larger and darker than the ones we are familiar at in the Grand Tetons.

Wood Bison

Solitary Sandpiper

Campground: Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park. 

It's a gem (5 Star) and so well maintained by the friendly camp hosts. It's a no hook up kind of place. Water is available for fill up but there is not a dump. Sites are huge and wooded. A few might be cleared enough for satellite. There is no cell phone signal with Verizon or T-Mobile.  Closest cell phone signal is a couple hours north in Watson Lake. Reservations are highly recommended. There is a parking lot for overflow across from the street from the entrance and a full hook up campground available nearby. 

It was an enjoyable visit and one we will always remember. Now it's on to the Yukon Territory.